The best way to see Varkala Cliff is to follow the light: walk the cliff path at dawn while it is empty, spend the morning on the beach or in the water below, retreat to a cliff-top café through the heat, and come back to the edge for sunset, when the whole town turns to face the sea. Add the ancient temple beside Papanasam beach and a seafood dinner, and you have seen the cliff properly.
The cliff is Varkala's heart and the reason the town is famous. Here is how to spend a day on and around it, in the order the day suggests.
Why the cliff is special
Varkala's cliffs are unusual. Kerala Tourism notes that they are the only place in southern Kerala where cliffs stand right beside the sea, and that they have been declared a national geological monument by the Geological Survey of India (Kerala Tourism). The rock is red laterite, and at sunset it glows.
Dawn: walk the cliff path
This is the most underrated thing to do in Varkala. At first light the path along the top of the cliff is almost empty: a few joggers, a few dogs, the cafés still shuttered, and the sea below turning from grey to blue.
Walk north along the cliff at dawn, when it is quietest, and let the walk end at breakfast. It is easy walking, and sandals are fine. At our house this is one of the free things we arrange for guests; the sunrise and sunset walks page explains how it works.
Morning: the beach and the temple below
Steps lead down from the cliff to Papanasam beach, the main beach in Varkala. It matters to many people for reasons beyond the view: Kerala Tourism explains that a dip here is believed to wash away sins, and close by stands the ancient Janardhana Swamy temple, probably one of the oldest in Kerala (Kerala Tourism).
A few things to know:
- Dress modestly around the temple and on the way to and from the beach, covering shoulders and knees.
- Give rituals space. Families come to Papanasam to perform ceremonies, often early in the morning.
- Visit the temple respectfully; the Janardhana Swamy Temple is a short walk from the beach.
Morning: get in the water
If you are here to surf, mornings are when to do it. Kerala Tourism lists Varkala Beach and nearby Black Beach as the main surfing spots, with generally gentle to moderate waves and early mornings as the best time (Kerala Tourism).
The beaches below the cliff get busy, both on the sand and in the water. If you are learning, a quieter beach break such as Edava, about ten minutes north, gives you more room. Our guide to how to choose a surf school in Varkala helps you pick a lesson wherever you are.
Midday: the cliff-top cafés
The cliff path is lined with cafés, and the middle of the day is when to use them: shade, a fan, a cold drink and a view. Some we send our own guests to:
- Holy Rabbit, on North Cliff: North Indian, South Indian and international, all done properly.
- Cafe Trip Is Life, on South Cliff: sunset views and nowhere to be.
- Cafe Sarwaa, on South Cliff: right on the edge, and open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
North Cliff is the busier, livelier end; South Cliff is calmer. Our food guide has the longer list, including where to eat off the cliff.
Late afternoon: shopping and a slow stroll
As the heat drops, the cliff path fills up again. It is a good time to browse the shops along the path, then find a spot for sunset before the best ones go. If you would rather be on the water, the backwater at Kappil is about ten minutes' ride north; see kayaking near Varkala.
Sunset: the main event
Sunset from Varkala Cliff is the town's great daily ritual. Pick a café table or a spot on the path facing west, and watch the sun drop into the Arabian Sea. On a clear evening the sky goes through gold, orange and deep red, and the cliff itself turns the colour of embers.
Tips:
- Arrive early in peak season (December and January) for a café table with a view.
- South Cliff is usually calmer than North Cliff at sunset.
- Walk south at dusk if you want the sky without the crowd.
Evening: dinner on the cliff
After sunset, the cliff is where Varkala eats. BLG Surf Bistro on North Cliff does seafood on a rooftop with the sea in front of it, which is hard to beat for a first night. For the best fish in the area, and a little off the main path, ask for directions to Mamma Champos.
Getting to the cliff
If you are staying on the cliff, you are already there. From Edava or the other northern beaches, it is about ten minutes by scooter or auto-rickshaw. From Varkala Sivagiri railway station, it is a short auto-rickshaw ride. Parking near the cliff is limited in the evenings, so a scooter is easier than a car, and walking is easiest of all once you are there.
Staying near the cliff, or not
Sleeping on the cliff puts all of this on your doorstep, along with the noise and the crowds. Staying somewhere quieter, such as Edava, means a short ride in the evening and calm nights. Our comparison of Edava vs Varkala Cliff sets out the trade-offs, and where to stay in Varkala, area by area covers the other areas.
A cliff day at a glance
| Time | What |
|---|---|
| Dawn | Walk the cliff path north |
| Morning | Papanasam beach, the temple, or a surf |
| Midday | A shaded café with a view |
| Late afternoon | Browse the path; or Kappil backwater |
| Sunset | A west-facing table on South Cliff |
| Evening | Seafood dinner |
For everything else nearby, from beaches to landmarks, our local guide has a map link for every place we mention.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Varkala cliff path safe to walk?
It is a popular, well-used path, but it runs along the top of real cliffs with drops to the beach, and parts of it have no railing. Stay back from the edge, watch your footing after rain, and take extra care at night and with small children.
When is the best time to visit Varkala Cliff?
For the walk, dawn, when it is cool and empty. For the atmosphere, sunset. In terms of season, October to March is the most comfortable, and December and January are the busiest.
Can you swim below the cliff?
Papanasam beach is Varkala's main beach and people do swim there, but the sea can be rough and currents can be strong. Swim only when conditions are calm, stay close to shore, and never swim alone.
Is North Cliff or South Cliff better?
North Cliff has more cafés, shops and nightlife. South Cliff is quieter, with a handful of cafés right on the edge and easier sunsets. For a first visit, spend an evening on each.
How long should I spend at the cliff?
A full day covers it comfortably: a dawn walk, the beach and temple, lunch in a café, and sunset. If you are staying nearby, you will find yourself back for dinner most evenings anyway.