The hidden spots around Varkala are mostly not hidden at all to the people who live here: they are just a little off the cliff, where visitors rarely go. A day with a local looks something like this: the fishing boats coming in at Edava at dawn, a quiet beach to yourself, a boat to a temple on a golden island, a British fort from the 1600s, a canal tunnel dug under the hills in the 1870s, the springs that trickle out of the cliff, a toddy shop in the afternoon, and a sunset somewhere without a café playing music at it.
We run a surf house at Edava, and when the sea goes flat or the lesson is done, this is the day we would plan for a friend. Here it is, stop by stop, with the practical bits.
Dawn: the working beach at Edava
Start where we live. Edava is a working fishing beach before it is anything else, and at first light the boats come in and the nets get hauled up the sand. Stand back, stay out of the way of the ropes, and do not photograph people who wave you off. It is the most honest hour on the coast.
A few minutes' walk along the sand is Odayam, which is usually quieter still. On most mornings you will share it with a few fishermen and a dog.
Mid-morning: breakfast, then the golden island
Have a proper Kerala breakfast (our food guide explains what to order), then head south to Ponnumthuruthu, whose name means golden island. It sits about 12 km south of Varkala in the backwaters, with a century-old Shiva Parvathi temple among coconut groves, and it is reached by a boat ride of around 30 minutes from the jetty at Nedunganda (Holidify; Wikipedia). The boat ride is half the point: slow water, fishing nets, herons, and very little noise.
It is a temple island, so dress the way you would for any temple: shoulders and knees covered.
Late morning: Anjengo fort and the lighthouse
Close by is Anchuthengu, where the British East India Company built Anjengo Fort in the 17th century, choosing the village for its first trade settlement in Kerala; it sits about 12 km from Varkala (Tripadvisor; Trawell). The walls, the old graves and the lighthouse next door make a strange, quiet hour, and very few people make the detour. Go before the midday heat.
Midday: shade, lunch, a nap
This is the part of the day locals are best at. The sun is fierce from late morning to mid-afternoon for most of the year, so eat somewhere shaded and slow down. Seafood is the order of the day in this part of Kerala.
Afternoon: the canal tunnel and the cliff springs
The Varkala tunnels are one of the region's odd pieces of engineering history. Built between 1867 and 1877 under the Kingdom of Travancore, twin canal tunnels at Sivagiri (722 m) and Chilakkoor (350 m) let boats carrying coir, rice and cashew pass under the hills (Wikipedia). The Chilakkoor tunnel was reopened in February 2026 as part of the Akkulam to Chettuva waterway project (Onmanorama), which makes it newly worth a visit.
Then drop down to Papanasam beach, below the cliff, and look at the base of the rock. Freshwater springs seep out of the laterite there, and the beach has drawn pilgrims for centuries because of them (Kerala Tourism). The Janardhana Swamy Temple sits just up from the beach; the grounds are open to all, the inner shrine to Hindus only.
The waterfall question
People ask us for the hidden waterfall near Varkala more than almost anything else, so here is the straight answer: there is no waterfall in Varkala itself. What people have usually seen in photographs is the water running out of the cliff at Papanasam, which is the nearest thing to it, and a lovely place to sit at low tide.
If you want a real waterfall, plan a day for it:
- Meenmutty Falls in Thiruvananthapuram district, about 45 km from Trivandrum city, reached by a trek of roughly 3 km from Kallar on the Vithura to Ponmudi road (Kerala Tourism).
- Palaruvi Falls in Kollam district, about 75 km from Kollam, where the name means stream of milk and the water drops from a height of about 300 feet (Kerala Tourism).
Both are long days out from Varkala, best after the monsoon when the water is up. Check the forest department's opening times before you go.
Late afternoon: a toddy shop
Toddy is fermented palm sap, sold fresh in simple licensed toddy shops, often with some of the best spicy fish curry and tapioca you will eat in Kerala. It is a genuine local institution, not a tourist show. Three things to know:
- It is for adults only. Kerala raised its legal drinking age to 23 in 2017 (Business Standard).
- Not all toddy shops are equal. Ask whoever you are staying with which one; we have opinions.
- Do not ride afterwards. Leave the scooter and take an auto-rickshaw to sunset.
Sunset: the backwater or the beach
End the day at Kappil, north of Edava, where the backwater runs alongside the sea and meets it at an estuary mouth. The light goes orange behind the palms and the water goes still. If you would rather paddle into it, our kayaking guide explains how the backwater works. If you would rather sit, any of the northern beaches will do.
After dark: skate, or stars
On most evenings the new Flow Cult skatepark near Edava is busy with surfers and locals. On a dark, moonless night, walk the beach instead: every so often the waves along this coast glow blue with plankton, which we explain in our guide to bioluminescence in Varkala.
The day at a glance
| Time | Where | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Dawn | Edava fishing beach | Boats and nets coming in |
| Morning | Odayam, then breakfast | A beach to yourself |
| Late morning | Ponnumthuruthu island | The boat, the temple, the quiet |
| Before noon | Anjengo fort | 17th-century history, no crowds |
| Midday | Shade and seafood | Do what the locals do |
| Afternoon | Chilakkoor tunnel, Papanasam springs | Engineering and pilgrimage |
| Late afternoon | A toddy shop | Kerala's own pub |
| Sunset | Kappil backwater | Orange light, still water |
Getting around
A scooter is the easiest way to string these together, and auto-rickshaws cover everything if you would rather not ride. Distances are short, but the roads are narrow and busy, so allow more time than the map suggests. For the bigger landmarks and restaurants, our guide to places to visit in Varkala has a map pin for each.
Frequently asked questions
Is there a waterfall in Varkala?
No. The water you may have seen falling from the cliff is the freshwater springs at Papanasam beach. The nearest proper waterfalls, Meenmutty and Palaruvi, are long day trips away.
How do you get to Ponnumthuruthu island?
Drive or take an auto-rickshaw to the jetty at Nedunganda, about 12 km south of Varkala, then take the boat across, which takes around 30 minutes. Dress modestly for the temple.
Is Anjengo fort worth visiting?
If you like quiet history, yes. It dates from the 17th century, it is close to Varkala, and you will often have it almost to yourself. Go in the morning, before the heat.
Can tourists go to a toddy shop?
Yes, if you are 23 or older, which is Kerala's legal drinking age. Go with someone local if you can, and do not drive or ride afterwards.
Can I do all of this in one day?
It is a full day. If you want to slow down, split it: the island, fort and tunnel one day, and the beaches, springs and backwater another.
What should I wear?
Light clothes for the heat, plus something that covers your shoulders and knees for temples and the island.