The best kayaking near Varkala is on the backwater at Kappil, about eight kilometres north of the town, where a long, flat lake runs right alongside the Arabian Sea with only a strip of sand and palms between them. Go in the last hour before sunset, stay on the backwater side, and even a complete beginner will have one of the calmest, prettiest hours of the trip. No experience is needed.
Surfing is the reason most people come to this coast, but the sea is not always the right place to be: some days are flat, some days your shoulders have had enough, and some days you just want water that is not trying to move you. That is what the backwater is for. Here is how to do it well.
Where to kayak near Varkala
Kappil is the obvious choice and the closest. Kerala Tourism describes it as the meeting point of Kappil Lake and the Arabian Sea, around 53 kilometres from Thiruvananthapuram and 8 kilometres from Varkala, with a boat club run by the Department of Tourism that hires out pedal boats (Kerala Tourism). Kappil sits within Edava, the village about five kilometres north of Varkala (Wikipedia), so from our house it is a short scooter ride.
The appeal is the contrast. On one side, the open sea with its breaking waves. On the other, a still lake edged with coconut palms and mangroves, where the only ripples are the ones your paddle makes.
Kayak or stand-up paddle-board?
Both work on the backwater, and neither needs experience.
A kayak keeps you seated and low to the water. It is the steadier choice, and it is what most first-timers pick. Doubles exist for couples, friends and anyone who would rather someone else did the steering.
A stand-up paddle-board (SUP) puts you on your feet. If you have had a surf lesson this week, the balance will feel familiar, with one big difference: this water is flat. Most people kneel for the first few minutes, stand once they trust it, and are gliding comfortably within a quarter of an hour.
| Kayak | Stand-up paddle-board | |
|---|---|---|
| Balance needed | Very little | Some, at first |
| Good for | First-timers, couples, photos | Surfers, anyone who likes a challenge |
| Doubles | Yes | No |
| Chance of a swim | Low | Higher, and part of the fun |
When to go: golden hour
The best time to paddle the backwater is the last hour before sunset. The wind usually drops, the surface goes glassy, and the light turns orange behind the palms. It is the best hour at Kappil, and it is not close.
Early morning is the other good window: cool, still and very quiet, with birds working the edges of the water. The middle of the day is the one to avoid. It is hot, the light is flat, and there is nowhere to hide from the sun on open water.
By season: Kerala Tourism recommends October to March for Kappil, when the weather is pleasant, and notes that the June to September monsoon brings heavy rain that can affect outdoor plans (Kerala Tourism). The backwater is still paddleable on a dry monsoon afternoon, but plan for rain and do not go out in a storm.
What a first paddle looks like
- A quick briefing on the bank. How to hold the paddle (knuckles lined up with the blade), how to get in without tipping, and how to steer.
- Ten minutes near the edge. Getting a feel for turning and stopping in shallow, calm water.
- Out onto the lake. A slow loop along the mangroves and back, as far as you feel like going.
- Sunset from the water. Stop paddling, drift, and watch.
Most people are out for an hour or so. You do not need to be fit; on flat water, a gentle rhythm is all it takes.
Safety: the backwater, not the sea
This is the one rule that matters. Kayaking and paddle-boarding happen on the backwater side at Kappil, where the surface is flat and nothing is breaking. The sea side is another matter entirely: currents at Edava and Kappil can be strong, and rip currents catch swimmers here every year.
A few habits keep a backwater paddle safe:
- Wear the life jacket, even if you swim well. The World Health Organization estimates around 300,000 drowning deaths a year worldwide, and lists water-safety skills and supervision among the ways to prevent them (WHO).
- Stay within sight of the bank on your first outing.
- Carry water and a hat, and put sunscreen on the backs of your hands, which catch the sun more than you would expect.
- Keep valuables in a dry bag, or leave them on the bank. A phone that goes in the lake stays in the lake.
- Check the sky. If a storm is building, come in.
What to bring
- Clothes you do not mind getting wet, or swimwear.
- Sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses with a strap.
- Water.
- A dry bag for your phone, if you want photos.
- Something warm for the ride back if you stay for sunset; it cools quickly on a scooter.
Combining it with a surf week
The backwater fits neatly around surfing because it happens at the opposite end of the day. Surf lessons run early, usually between 06:30 and 09:30 depending on the tide, when the sea is calmest; paddling is best in the late afternoon. A week that alternates the two, surf in the morning and backwater at golden hour, rests your surf muscles without wasting the day.
It also makes a good plan for a flat day, or for someone in your group who does not surf: they get the water, the light and the photographs without a wave in sight.
How to arrange it
There is no timetable. At our house, tell us the night before, on the terrace or on WhatsApp, and we set it up: singles or doubles, kayak or paddle-board. The kayak and SUP page has the details, and a scooter makes the short ride to Kappil easy.
If you are planning the rest of the trip, our guide to the best time to visit Varkala covers the seasons, Varkala in 2 to 3 days puts Kappil at sunset into a short itinerary, and our local guide lists the beaches and cafés nearby, each with a map link.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to know how to swim to kayak on the backwater?
It is strongly recommended, and everyone wears a life jacket either way. The backwater is flat, and a kayak is very stable, so falling in is unusual. If you are not a confident swimmer, choose a double kayak and tell whoever arranges it before you set off.
Can children kayak at Kappil?
Yes, with an adult. A double kayak with a parent is the usual way, and children wear life jackets like everyone else. Keep the first outing short and close to the bank.
How long does a backwater paddle take?
Most people are out for about an hour: long enough to reach the quiet stretches along the mangroves and be back as the light goes. You can go shorter or longer; there is no fixed route.
Is it better to kayak or paddle-board if I surf?
If you want to rest your shoulders, kayak. If you want balance practice that carries over to the surf, paddle-board. Many people try both across a week.