Where to stay in Varkala depends on how you want your days to go: North Cliff if you want cafés, sunsets and nightlife on your doorstep, or South Cliff for the same views with less noise. Pick Edava, a quiet working beach about ten minutes by scooter north of the cliff, if you are here to surf, and Kappil, further north again, if you want backwaters and real seclusion.
The area shapes the trip more than the room you book. It decides whether dinner is a stroll or a ride, and whether you fall asleep to music or wake to fishing boats. There is no single right answer, only the right one for you. Here is how the areas compare, and what to check before you book anywhere.
First, the lie of the land
Two names cause most of the confusion. The Varkala Cliff is the long red laterite ridge above the sea, and visitors usually split the busy stretch into North Cliff and South Cliff. Varkala Beach is one of the town's main beaches, and Kerala Tourism notes it is also known as Papanasam beach (Kerala Tourism). Wikivoyage sums up the layout neatly: the resort area runs along two cliffs, north and south, overlooking the beach, with Papanasam between them and the less crowded Black Beach to the north (Wikivoyage).
In everyday use, "the Cliff" means that busy strip of cafés. Strictly speaking, the cliff itself carries on north: Onmanorama describes it in three sections, North, South and Edava (Onmanorama). But Edava and Kappil beaches sit well away from the cliff-top cafés, on the quieter northern side of Varkala, which is why staying there usually means a short ride to dinner rather than a stroll.
Varkala's areas at a glance
| Area | Best for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| North Cliff | Cafés, nightlife, sunsets, being in the middle of it | Noise, crowds in peak season, steep cliff paths |
| South Cliff | A calmer cliff stay near Papanasam beach and the temple | Fewer places to eat within walking distance |
| Black Beach | Surfing near the cliff, a quieter beach | Busy line-up on good days |
| Edava | Surf lessons, quiet mornings, a village feel | You'll want a scooter or auto for the cliff at night |
| Kappil | Backwaters, sunsets, seclusion | Far from cafés; strong currents at the beach |
North Cliff: in the thick of it
The red laterite cliff is what made Varkala famous. Kerala Tourism notes it is the only place in southern Kerala where cliffs stand right beside the sea, and the cliffs have been declared a national geological monument (Kerala Tourism). North Cliff is the busiest stretch of it: a long path lined with cafés, shops and guesthouses looking straight out over the Arabian Sea.
Stay here if you want to walk out of your door into dinner, a sunset and a bar, every night. The trade-off is noise, especially in December and January, and the fact that you are one of a great many people doing exactly the same thing. For surfers, the beach below is a busy place to learn.
South Cliff: the calmer cliff
South Cliff overlooks Papanasam from the southern side, and the beach below is a place of real religious importance: Kerala Tourism explains that a dip here is believed to wash away sins, and the ancient Janardhana Swamy temple stands close by (Kerala Tourism). It is quieter than North Cliff, with a few well-known cafés, and it suits people who want the cliff views without the cliff crowd.
A note on respect: Papanasam is where families come to perform rituals for their ancestors, often early in the morning. Dress modestly on the way to and from the beach and give ceremonies space.
Edava: for surfers and slow mornings
Edava lies about five kilometres north of Varkala (Wikipedia), roughly ten minutes from the North Cliff by scooter. The beach is sandy, the break is forgiving, and at dawn the sand belongs to the fishing boats and whoever got up early to surf. It is the reason our surf school is here rather than on the cliff.
Stay here if the sea is the point of the trip: you can be in the water before the cliff cafés have opened, and asleep before the cliff bars have closed. The trade-off is that the cliff is a short ride away rather than a walk, so plan on a scooter or an auto-rickshaw for evenings out.
After dark, Edava is quiet, and the choice of places to eat is far smaller than on the cliff. If you want a different bar every night, stay on the cliff and come to Edava for a day at the beach instead.
Kappil: where the backwaters meet the sea
Kappil is the most beautiful stretch of this coast, and the most remote. Kerala Tourism puts Kappil Lake about six kilometres north of Varkala town, and describes Kappil beach as the meeting point of the lake and the Arabian Sea (Kerala Tourism). The sunsets are extraordinary and the backwaters are right there for kayaking.
It suits couples and anyone who wants genuine seclusion. It is not the place for easy dinners out, and the sea here deserves respect: currents at Edava and Kappil can be strong, so admire the water at Kappil and swim only where someone who knows it says it is fine.
Hostel, guesthouse or surf house?
Varkala has every kind of stay, and the right type depends as much on who you are travelling with as on where.
- Hostels cluster on North Cliff and suit solo travellers on a budget who want company.
- Guesthouses and homestays are everywhere, and give you a local family's take on the town.
- Resorts sit mostly around the cliff and along the quieter beaches.
- Surf houses combine a place to sleep with a surf school, so the lesson starts at the door.
Ours is the last kind: five private rooms and a four-bed dorm on Edava beach, all air-conditioned, with Kerala breakfast included and the beach where our lessons run about fifty steps away. Dorm beds start at ₹1,000 and private rooms at ₹3,000 a night, and rates follow the season; every date is on the rooms page.
Five checks before you book anywhere
Room photos tell you very little about the things that decide your stay. Ask these:
- How far is the beach, in minutes on foot? "Near the beach" can mean anything.
- Is there road access to the door? Some cliff stays are reached only by steep paths, which matters with luggage.
- What is the noise like at night? Ask specifically about music and generators.
- Is breakfast included, and what is it? A good Kerala breakfast is one of the joys of staying here.
- What does the room look like from the door? Ask for a photo taken on a phone, not the professional set.
Getting around from each area
- From North Cliff, most of what you want is on foot along the cliff path. For Kappil, Edava or the backwaters, take an auto-rickshaw or rent a scooter.
- From South Cliff, the temple and Papanasam beach are close; North Cliff is a walk along the beach or a short ride.
- From Edava, rent a scooter for the week, or use auto-rickshaws. The Cliff is about ten minutes away, and Kappil is close in the other direction.
- From Kappil, you will be riding for almost everything, so a scooter is close to essential.
When to book
In the peak months of December and January, and above all over Christmas and New Year, good rooms in every area go early. Book as soon as your dates are fixed. In October and March you can usually be more relaxed, and in the monsoon months you can often book a few days ahead. Wherever you stay, check the cancellation terms before you pay, especially for holiday weeks. If your dates are still open, our guide to the best time to visit Varkala goes through the seasons month by month.
So which should you choose?
- First visit, want the full Varkala experience: North Cliff, or South Cliff if you prefer it calmer.
- Here to learn to surf: Edava, close to the beach where lessons run.
- Couple after quiet and sunsets: Kappil, or Edava for a little more going on.
- Travelling with family: South Cliff or Edava, away from the late-night noise.
- Group of friends: a surf house or a big guesthouse where you can take the whole place.
If you are torn between the two most common choices, we wrote a detailed comparison of Edava vs Varkala Cliff. For the practical side, see how to reach Varkala, and our local guide covers the beaches, cafés and dinner spots around each area. To see our own rooms, the stay page has every room type, and the dorm is the cheapest way to sleep fifty steps from the sea.
Frequently asked questions
Is it better to stay on the Varkala Cliff or near the beach?
It depends on whether your evenings or your mornings matter more. If it is the evenings, stay on the cliff: food, bars and the sunset path are all a walk away, and steps lead down to Varkala Beach below. If it is the mornings (a dawn surf, a quiet beach walk, a proper night's sleep), stay close to the sand: near Papanasam and the temple if you still want the cliff within reach, or somewhere quieter such as Edava or Kappil, with the cliff a short ride away for dinner.
Where should I stay in Varkala if I don't want to rent a scooter?
North Cliff is the easiest: cafés, shops and the sunset are all on foot along the cliff path, so you can go a whole week without wheels. Black Beach, just north of North Cliff, is similar, with several cafés on Black Beach Road. South Cliff also works if you don't mind a walk along the beach or a short auto-rickshaw ride for dinner. From Edava, plan on an auto-rickshaw for evenings out; Kappil is hard going without your own wheels.