One week in Varkala is enough to learn to surf properly and still see the best of the coast. The plan below gives you five surf mornings at Edava, a rest day in the middle, the cliff at sunset, the quiet northern beaches, a boat to a golden island, a backwater paddle, a canal tunnel from the 1870s and at least one long lunch. The rhythm is simple: surf early, slow down through the heat, and explore in the late afternoon.
We run a surf house and school at Edava, on the northern side of Varkala, and this is the week we would plan for a friend. If you only have a long weekend, our 2 to 3 day Varkala itinerary is the short version.
The week at a glance
| Day | Morning | Afternoon and evening |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Travel in | Settle in, sunset at Edava |
| 2 | First surf lesson | The cliff and Papanasam at sunset |
| 3 | Surf | Kappil backwater and estuary |
| 4 | Rest, or yoga | Ponnumthuruthu island and Anjengo fort |
| 5 | Surf | Varkala tunnels, a toddy shop |
| 6 | Surf | Paddle the backwater, dinner on the cliff |
| 7 | Last surf | Pack up, travel out |
Why a week works
The first day in the water is mostly about balance and timing. By the third morning, most beginners are standing up on the whitewater; by the fifth, they are starting to pick their own waves. A week gives your body time to adapt and your coach time to fix the small things. It is also long enough to stop rushing, which is half the point of Varkala.
Day 1: arrive and slow down
Most people fly into Trivandrum. From the airport, Edava is about an hour by road; our guide on how to reach Varkala covers the airport, the trains and every route in. Do nothing ambitious today. Drop your bags, walk the sand, and watch the fishing boats and the sunset from Edava. Get to bed early: the first lesson is in the morning.
Day 2: the first lesson, then the cliff
Lessons run in the morning, timed to the weather and the tide. The first one is about safety, the pop-up on the sand, and catching whitewater. Our surf lessons in Varkala include the board, the rash vest and the ride to the beach, so there is nothing to bring except sunscreen.
Eat, rest through the heat, and in the late afternoon head to the Varkala cliff. Walk the cliff path, then drop down to Papanasam beach, where freshwater springs seep out of the base of the laterite cliff and pilgrims have come for centuries (Kerala Tourism). The Janardhana Swamy Temple sits just up from the beach; cover shoulders and knees if you go in, and note that the inner shrine is for Hindus only. Stay for sunset.
Day 3: surf, then Kappil
Your second session is where things start to connect. Afterwards, have a proper Kerala breakfast; our Varkala food guide explains what to order.
In the late afternoon, go north to Kappil, where the backwater runs alongside the sea and meets it at an estuary mouth. It is one of the best sunsets on this coast. The currents at the river mouth can be strong, so enjoy it from the sand rather than swimming.
Day 4: rest day, a golden island and an old fort
Your arms will thank you for a day off. If you want something gentle in the morning, a beach yoga session is a good way to loosen up shoulders and hips.
Then head south. Ponnumthuruthu, the golden island, sits in the backwaters about 12 km south of Varkala, with a century-old Shiva Parvathi temple among the coconut trees, and is reached by a boat ride of around 30 minutes from the jetty at Nedunganda (Holidify; Wikipedia). Nearby, Anjengo Fort at Anchuthengu dates from the 17th century, when the British East India Company chose the village for its first trade settlement in Kerala. The lighthouse next door is worth the climb. Go in the morning if you can, before the heat.
If you would rather spend the rest day on a bigger trip, see the waterfall option below.
Day 5: surf, the tunnels and a toddy shop
Back in the water. By now you should be riding whitewater all the way in and starting to angle along the wave.
In the afternoon, visit the Varkala tunnels. Built between 1867 and 1877 under the Kingdom of Travancore, twin canal tunnels at Sivagiri and Chilakkoor let cargo boats pass under the hills (Wikipedia). The Chilakkoor tunnel reopened in February 2026 as part of the state's waterway project (Onmanorama).
End the day at a toddy shop, Kerala's own version of a pub, for fresh palm toddy and spicy fish curry. It is for adults only: the legal drinking age in Kerala is 23. Leave the scooter behind and take an auto-rickshaw. Our guide to hidden spots around Varkala has more on the tunnels, the toddy shop and a full day with a local.
Day 6: surf, then paddle the backwater
Your fourth session. If you are progressing well, ask your coach about moving from whitewater towards small green waves.
In the afternoon, get on the water the calm way. The backwater near Kappil is flat, lined with palms and mangroves, and lovely by kayak or paddle board as the light drops. Our kayaking guide explains how the backwater works and when to go.
Finish with dinner on the cliff and a last look at the sea from above.
Day 7: a last surf and home
Take the final lesson early, then pack. If your flight is in the evening, there is time for a long lunch before the drive to the airport. If you keep a surf diary, this is the day to write it: what clicked, and what to work on next time.
The waterfall option
People often ask us for a waterfall near Varkala. There is none in Varkala itself; the nearest thing is the water running out of the cliff at Papanasam. For a real waterfall, use the rest day:
- Meenmutty Falls, about 45 km from Thiruvananthapuram city, reached by a trek of roughly 3 km from Kallar (Kerala Tourism).
- Palaruvi Falls in Kollam district, where the water drops about 300 feet (Kerala Tourism).
Both are long days from Varkala and are best after the monsoon, when the water is up. Check opening times before you go.
If the sea is wrong
Some mornings the sea is too big, too messy or too flat. When that happens, swap days: explore in the morning and surf the next day instead. That is why the plan keeps its sightseeing in the afternoons and its rest day in the middle. Our Varkala surf season guide explains which months are most reliable; October to March is the heart of the season.
If you would rather not plan it at all
Our five-day surf camps in Varkala put a plan like this together for you: surf every morning, breakfast and dinner at the house, three ice baths, yoga, two video reviews of your surfing and a closing barbecue, with dates through the season. If you prefer to set your own pace, book a room and add lessons as you go; our surf and stay guide shows what that adds up to, and you fill the afternoons however you like.
Getting around
A scooter is the easiest way to string the week together if you ride confidently and carry your licence. Otherwise, auto-rickshaws go everywhere; agree the fare before you get in. Distances are short, but the roads are narrow and busy, so allow extra time.
Frequently asked questions
Is one week enough for Varkala?
Yes. A week gives you five surf sessions, time to see the cliff, the northern beaches, the backwaters and a day trip, and a rest day in the middle, without rushing.
Can a beginner learn to surf in one week?
Most beginners stand up on the whitewater within the first few sessions. Over five mornings, many start catching and riding their own waves. Progress depends on the sea and on surfing regularly, which is why a week works better than a single lesson.
What is the best month for a week in Varkala?
October to March, when the monsoon has passed and the surf is more reliable. November to February usually brings the most settled weather.
Should I stay near the cliff or at Edava?
The cliff is livelier, with cafés and nightlife; Edava and the northern beaches are quieter and closer to the surf. For a surf week, staying near the beach you surf makes the early mornings easier.
Do I need to book lessons in advance?
It is worth it in peak season, from November to February. Message ahead with your dates and we will plan the week around the tides.
What if I get tired halfway through?
Take a rest day. Surfing every day for a week is hard on shoulders and backs, and one day off usually means better sessions afterwards.