Two or three days is enough for a proper taste of Varkala if you plan around two things: the sea is calmest in the early morning, and the afternoon heat is not for sightseeing. So surf at dawn, rest through the middle of the day, and save the cliff, the temple and Kappil for the late afternoon and evening. Below is a three-day plan built exactly that way, with a two-day version at the end.
It assumes you are staying in Edava or on the cliff, and that you arrive by the afternoon of day one. If you have not sorted the journey yet, start with how to reach Varkala.
The plan at a glance
| Morning | Afternoon | Evening | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Travel | Settle in, a swim with someone who knows the beach | Sunset and dinner on North Cliff |
| Day 2 | Dawn surf lesson, chai, breakfast | Rest, then Papanasam beach and the temple | Kappil at sunset, seafood dinner |
| Day 3 | Second lesson or a board to practise | Toddy shop, a long lunch | Skatepark, last sunset, depart |
Day 1: arrive and find the cliff
Afternoon. Arrive, drop your bags, and do nothing much. If you want to get in the sea, ask someone who knows the beach where and when; currents at Edava and Kappil can be strong, and rip currents catch swimmers here every year.
Evening. Head up to North Cliff an hour before sunset. The red laterite cliffs are the reason Varkala is famous: Kerala Tourism notes they are the only cliffs in southern Kerala right beside the sea, and a national geological monument (Kerala Tourism). Walk the path, pick a spot, and watch the sun drop into the Arabian Sea with half the town.
For dinner, BLG Surf Bistro on North Cliff does seafood on a rooftop with the sea in front of it, which is hard to beat for a first night. Go to bed early. Tomorrow starts before seven.
Day 2: the surf lesson, the temple and Kappil
Morning. This is the day the trip is built around. Beginner surf lessons run early, when the wind is light and the sea is at its most settled; Kerala Tourism's guide to surfing in Varkala makes the same point. Ours start between 06:30 and 09:30 depending on the tide, and we confirm the time the day before.
Expect about twenty minutes on the sand learning to paddle and pop up, then around seventy in chest-deep water. A group lesson with us is ₹1,500 per person with the board, rash vest and beach transfer included, and your first surf lesson, minute by minute explains exactly how it goes.
Afterwards, do what the local surf crowd does: chai, then a proper breakfast. You will be starving.
Midday. Rest. Sleep, read, swim if the sea is calm and someone knows the water. This is not wasted time; it is how you avoid being flattened by the heat by three o'clock.
Late afternoon. Visit Papanasam beach and the Janardhana Swamy temple beside it. Kerala Tourism describes the temple as probably one of the oldest in Kerala, and the beach as a place where a dip is believed to wash away sins (Kerala Tourism). Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees, and be respectful of anyone performing rituals.
Sunset. Ride north to Kappil, where the backwaters meet the sea. Kerala Tourism puts it about eight kilometres from Varkala, and there is a boat club there that hires out pedal boats (Kerala Tourism). Go at sunset; it is the best hour here and it is not close. Enjoy the view from the sand rather than the sea, though, because the currents at Kappil are strong.
Dinner. Mamma Champos, off the tourist trail, is the best fish restaurant in the area and one you would never find on your own. Ask for directions before you set off.
Day 3: a second session and a slow finish
Morning. Book a second lesson. The first one teaches your body what to do; the second is where it starts working. If you stood up comfortably yesterday and the sea is suitable, a board for two hours to practise in the whitewater is the other option; the rentals page has the details.
Midday. Try the toddy shop, a Kerala classic and something of a rite of passage: fresh palm wine, best in the afternoon. Follow it with a long lunch and no plans.
Evening. Flow Cult Skatepark, right around the corner from Edava, is busiest in the evenings: surfers, locals and travellers, and the fastest way to stop feeling like a tourist. Then one last sunset before you head for your train or flight.
If you only have two days
Cut day one down to the evening on the cliff, and make day two the full plan above: dawn lesson, rest, temple, Kappil, seafood. You will miss the second lesson and the skatepark, which is the best argument there is for coming back.
If the sea is wrong on your lesson day
It happens, even in season. A strong wind or a big swell can make the morning unsuitable for beginners, and a good school will tell you the day before rather than put you in rough water. If that happens, swap days: do day three's plan on day two, and surf on day three instead. This is the single best reason to book the lesson for your first full morning rather than your last. It leaves you room to move it.
If someone in your group doesn't surf
Varkala is easy for a mixed group. While the surfers are in the water at dawn, the non-surfers can take a yoga class, walk the cliff path before the heat, or simply sleep in and meet everyone for breakfast. The afternoons and evenings in this plan, the temple, Kappil, the cliff at sunset, the long lunches, suit everyone equally. For a non-surfer who wants to be on the water too, the backwaters at Kappil are the calmest place to do it; Kerala Tourism notes the boat club there hires out pedal boats.
How to get around
Rent a scooter for the trip if you can ride one. It turns the cliff, Kappil and the backwaters into short rides instead of logistics. Otherwise, auto-rickshaws are everywhere; agree the fare before you set off. Our local guide has the beaches, cafés and dinner spots in this plan, plus more, and our food guide goes deeper on where to eat.
Where to stay for this plan
This plan works from either Edava or the cliff. Edava puts you closest to the beach where lessons run and gives you quiet nights; the cliff puts dinner on your doorstep. If you are torn, Edava vs Varkala Cliff sets out the trade-offs.
If you want the whole thing arranged, a surf-and-stay booking bundles the bed and the lessons: see surf and stay in Varkala for how that works, and the lessons page for current prices.
Three things that make a short trip better
- Book the lesson before you arrive. Morning slots in peak season go quickly.
- Carry water everywhere. The heat is the thing that ruins short trips.
- Say yes to the chai after the lesson. It is where you find out what else is worth doing.